Like pyjamas (see our February issue) the riding breeches known as jodhpurs originated in Asia and arrived in the west via India. Deriving from the churidar, a traditional garment of northern India and named after Rajasthan’s second-largest city, Jodhpur, these were distinctive trousers cut wide in the hips and drawn in tight folds to the calf. Roomy, well-ventilated and ideal in hot climates, churidar were worn by males and females with a loose shirt or tunic and are still seen at traditional Jodhpur weddings.

With their loose fit in the seat and thighs, churidar were well-suited to horse-riding and variants were worn for polo, played in India for centuries. In 1818 Jodhpur entered into subsidiary alliance with the British and subsequently polo clubs opened across northern India, attracting British cavalry officers. Sir Pratap Singh, the Regent of Jodhpur and a British Indian Army officer, revised the local form of churidar worn for polo, his refined style of jodhpurs reportedly first tailored in 1890, fashioned from sturdy cotton twill, cut wider in the leg and reinforced inside the calf and knee. These iconic garments were rapidly adopted by polo teams throughout India and also became popular in England, where the design was readily incorporated into existing riding breeches. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, before modern stretchy fabrics were developed, encouraging tight-fitting riding breeches, wide jodhpurs were worn for not only polo, but diverse equestrian events and activities.

Jodhpurs also featured significantly in the development of early 20th century uniforms, the flared breeches and leather boots imparting a certain style and air of authority. As horse-drawn conveyances began to give way to motor vehicles, early household chauffeurs and taxi-car drivers wore smart jodhpurs, in recognition of their equestrian origins. During World War One, mounted military units and motorbike despatch riders of both sexes adopted jodhpur-style breeches and they remained part of many uniforms until the 1940s.

From the 1920s more women adopted jodhpurs, both for horse-riding astride – the new trend – and for active sports such as skiing. Female aviators of the 1930s gave the wearing of jodhpurs an added glamour and they were issued to Land Army girls as part of their standard uniform during World War Two.